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Editions
de Parfums Frédéric Malle |
(From
1france.com) Frédéric Malle: Putting Perfumes Back on a Pedestal by Michèle Loyer Perfumes have lost their aura and become just another consumer good, says young perfumer Frédéric Malle, grandson of Serge Heftler, founder of Christian Dior Parfums. Malle, who just opened a perfume shop, wants to return perfumes to the pedestal they occupied before global market strategies intervened. The revolutionary new concept he created for his store is designed to do just that.
Its probably not by chance that Malle chose the Paris neighborhood with the highest concentration of publishing houseswithin a stones throw of St-Germain-des-Présto open his avant-garde perfume boutique. He does, after all, define himself as a publisher of fragrances. Following 12 years of training at some of the most prestigious perfume labs, Malle became a perfume consultant in 1994, creating fragrances for such haute-couture houses as Christian Lacroix and Hermès. But during all those years he kept dreaming of giving perfumes back their lost identity as rare luxury products. His dream has now materialized in his own perfume shop, light years away from the traditional multibrand retail outlet. He selected seven talented perfumers and asked them each to create one exclusive perfume, freeing them from financial or marketing limits. The result: Seven brand new fragrances, each reflecting its perfumers personality, are now produced and sold exclusively by Malle in his Parisian boutique. With the enthusiasm of a publisher discovering a new writer, he savors his role as go-between, smoothing the way for fortuitous meetings of customers and anonymous perfumers. In order to make the difficult task of choosing a perfume easier for the customer, Malle has installed in his Rue de Grenelle boutique a state-of-the-art-technology formerly seen only in the lab. With the help of trendy interior designer Andrée Putman, Malle designed the shop as a neutral lab-like space. Transparent columnsactually olfactory booths where perfumes are scientifically diffusedgive customers the most favorable conditions in which to accurately appreciate the many notes of a fragrance. The salespersonsall young graduates of the prestigious ISIPCA perfume and cosmetology institutehave a thorough knowledge of perfume ingredients, their interaction and reaction with the skin. One of the perfumers selected by Malle, Michel Roudnitska, has a name that's famous in the perfume industry. His late father, Edmond, was considered to be one of the most talented noses of his time. Along with his own creation"Noir Epices," a sensual oriental scent with a citrus noteMichel Roudnitska brought "L'Eau de Thérèse," an illustrious but never marketed fragrance created for his mother by his father. It is considered to be one of Edmond Roudnitska's greatest perfumes, on a par with his most famous scents: "Femme," created for Marcel Rochas, and "L'Eau Sauvage," "Diorissimo" and "Diorella," alchemized for Christian Dior. The mythic "Eau de Thérèse" can now be found only at Malle's boutique. Each perfume is sold in two sizes: 50 and 100 ml. Prices range from FF300 to FF720, according to size and composition. Exclusive new fragrances will be offered each year to Malle's growing clientele of
perfume initiates. |
| "Elle" June 2000 : | |
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"Create perfumes like one conceives quality books for publication? Bring to life the formulas of the most talented authors - the most talented "nez" Imagine rare scents like rare editions for exacting collectors That is Frédéric Malles goal in creating his amazing library-boutique. "The objective was not to launch another new brand but rather to create an authentic House of Perfumes, in the great tradition of the masters of Grasse, the birthplace of the French perfume industry" ( ) The first fragrances proposed by Frédéric Malle tell the story of eight master perfumers "coups de coeur" ( )
- Le Parfum de Thérèse by Edmond Roudnitska : a posthumous re-edition of
the famous master perfumer, in honor of his wife : fruits and flowers on a leather
background. A monument. |
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| "Cosmopolitan" September 2000 (Maïté Turonnet): | |
" Edmond Roudnitska, the mega-composer of Femme for Rochas, and Diorissimo and Eau Sauvage for Dior, has signed a splendid perfume, Parfum de Thérèse, rediscovered by Frédéric Malle. Mandarine-melon-pepper, violet-plum-clove, cedar-vetiver-leather : the triptych is admirable, and deserves to figure among the greatest fragrances ever " " With Noir Epices, Michel Roudnitska has succeeded in creating a surprising scent, right on top of the woody oriental trend young city people are currently looking for : an orange-geranium head note, a 100% spicy development that alternately evokes oriental souks, medieval pots-pourris (nutmeg, cinnamon, clove, pepper), followed by a very warm, very dense base note : patchouli, cedar, sandalwood. The combination is balanced, distinctively personal, but nevertheless, ultra-contemporary."
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| The press continued to talk about "Art and Parfum" and their creations : Le Figaro, Figaro Madame, Biba, Libération, Cosmétique Magazine, Fashion Daily, Parfums et Senteurs (n°3), Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, ...etc |
| Comments on
"Noir Epices" in Make Up Alley's Review Comments on "Parfum de Thérèse" in Make Up Alley's ReviewComments on "Noir Epices" on Basenotes.com "Noir Epices" on Bois de Jasmin.com "Parfum de Therèse" on Bois de Jasmin.com Your views are welcome on these forums |
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